Showing posts with label f) travel-log. Show all posts
Showing posts with label f) travel-log. Show all posts

Friday, November 7, 2014

one small climb up the hill

This plan was not entirely planned but something that just happened to happen. Three friends drove very early on a Saturday morning from Benagaluru to Kodavu.

First happy disappointment, we took a route that had no traffic and beautiful country side and awfully bad roads for a small car like our Maruti Alto K10 can handle. Yes, of-course we were wrongly recommended by experts and smart phone navigation apps, but the views were too good and we were more happy than disappointed.




We reached our pre-booked home-stay at about 1:20PM. Honey Valley, a nice hideout about 4 kms off Kabinakand bus stop on Talakavery -Virajpet main road in midst of coffee plantation.

After lunch we talked with the home-stay manager Ajeet; he gave us a brief detail about the surroundings. A kilometer towards South-east was the Dry Pond. From here you can chose from as many as six trails, including Mt. Tadiandamol. We walked up to check this place while the afternoon sun went on to hide behind low clouds.

With only about two hours of light left we picked the trail that goes to base of Chelavara water fall. Only halfway through it started to drizzle and we U-turned. Rest of the evening was uneventful, we have an early dinner and slept off.

Sunday morning was gloomy and cloudy. Something in me was not so happy about it. We got ready, had breakfast and started walking towards dry pond by 9:00 am; which was an ideal time to begin, not too early not too late.

We took the western path towards Naland palace but came back and climbed the steep trail towards south instead. A short walk through the woods brought us to a narrow slippery steep ridge ascending east wards.

From top of this small hill you can see upper Chelavara falls in front and another Yevakapadi peak a little towards left covered in clouds. We continued our ridge walk further towards a big black rock that propped out of the hill on our right. Passed the rock to enter the woods. We could hear the waterfalls clearly over shrill noise of crickets. We crossed a stream that feeds the Chelevera falls below, it was couple of meters wide; before walking into the dense acacia grove that turned sharp right along the top of the hill west wards. From here you have first look at Mt. Tadiandamol, for us it was covered with clouds.

The path ahead was not well marked and confusing; it kept on appearing and disappearing. After crossing over another small hill we were again walking a steep ridge through short shrub like flowering plants; flowering cause we were walking on a carpet of caterpillars. The condition of disappearing trails continued and we were walking all over looking for one. Until we found ourselves already walking another dense grove of wild acacia. It had already past 10:30 AM and we were hardly half way through, we were very slow and disappearing trails just added to delay.

Further up we met two local lads looking over their herd of cattle; they reconfirmed which way we should keep moving. The sky seemed to be clearing out and we were now walking through thick grass; along a steep ridge of course. I thought climbing over the hill would be more time consuming than going around the ridge as we had lost a lot of time. But soon realized that this was not a very good idea either; trails kept on disappearing and we ran into dead end like gorges.

By 1:00 PM we were still about two hours behind from reaching the peak, we decided to take a break on top this hill that was just one hilltop behind tall Tadiandamol. We recalculated our positions; it was about to rain and finally decided to return the way we came, without going any further. We were slow, kept on loosing tracks, couple of wrong decisions and a little tired too.

We eat our snacks and started back at about 2:00 PM. We had only covered about a kilometer and it started raining heavily. In midst of all this we kept hearing elephant trumpets coming from the woods now on our left. It was faint and we did not give much heed to it; we had bigger problems at hand, the down pour had covered our tracks it seemed impossible to retrace them. At this time MyTracks app that we were using to GPS mark our route came very handy. Even thought rain made it difficult to check the mobile, but we were able to trace back quite a lot.

Before we reached the wild acacia grove there was a very sharp descend to right, on an almost vertical ridge, we had lost lot of time while climbing it up. Now with rains it became more treacherous to climb down. I was afraid for my friends, they did not have any prior experience. So we took a more significantly visible game track that went left and seemed to go around the hill through the woods. The GPS tracker showed we were deviating away from our route but we kept on walking on the mud trail until a loud sound tore through the silence of the forest. The elephant must have been only 20 meters from us I only saw the thick forest moving; we panicked and started running back as fast as we could.

Funny thing was that in fearurry we had already crossed the wild acacia grove and were back on our original trail, rain had also stopped by this time. Now we were moving fast through the caterpillar carpet. We kept a watch on the GPS tracker from time to time just to be sure, it was already late into the afternoon. We reached the stream at around 4:10, there was more water and stronger current. By the time we reached the black rock it was almost evening and the wet moss covered path became very dangerous to walk.

We were at the dry pond region at about 5:35 PM and it was almost dark when we reached Honey valley. As soon I reached the home-stay I started the gruesome process of removing all leeches that were feeding on me all this time. Both my white socks had turned red in blood, I could not count their number for there were so many of them. Its still itching while I am writing this blog.



Saturday, September 28, 2013

walking a railroad

Walking a Railroad

7:42 PM (Bangalore)
 Autorikshaw reached Krishnarajapuram Railway Station. Some time still in hand, I will use it in loitering around the platform.

7:54 PM (Bangalore)
Phone rang someone called, "Gautom, where are you?"- I am at KR Puram Station on platform 4. "Come to platform 3 under shed 16." Now going to platform 3. Train name Chennai Vasco Express, coming from Chennai going to Vasco arrival KR Puram Station expected at 8:20 PM.

8:40 PM (Bangalore)
Here comes our train. Fuck man!!! its coming on the other platform. Platform number four. Run Everyone Run. With all the backpacks, tents, sleeping bags, mat rolls everybody jumping off this platform onto the tracks and up into the train on the opposite side. More running, more climbing.

8:44 PM (Bangalore)
Settled S6-46 upper berth. Most of the guys n' gals in the group have known each other from previous trips. I guess a fun group. This is my first outing with Bangalore Trekking Club, I will take my time.

9:42 PM (Bangalore)
Yesvantpur station. Eight more joins. Total 24- 17 boys and 7 girls is my count.

10:24 PM (Bangalore)
Train leaving Yesvantpur station only now. I had already had a late lunch so will not have anything for dinner tonight.

11:14 PM (In Train)
Train moving fast and slow and I am feeling a little bored. It's like sun rises slowly and slowly it shines. It doesn't just become noon after midnight.

12:23 PM (In Train)
Most of us are asleep, a few are trying and I am not sure. No, no wait I hear someone talking something like giving gyan. Haven't met the entire group yet. Ok lets say goodnight

1:25 AM (In Train)
Well its making me feel funny. I am supposed to be sleeping but its not letting me. When in a forest amongst all noise there's chirping of a cricket, near a lake there's croaking of a toad that always stand tall and clear; likewise here amongst all noise of thumbling locomotive like tin cans tied to a rope dragged by some unruly kid and all the clattering of window panes and buzzing fans overhead there's this rhythmic sound of my fellow travelers snoring stands loud and sound- its music damn it!!!

7:11 AM (Hubli Station)
Wake up old man. Jump off your berth and out on to the platform. Board says HUBLI. A quick brush chik! chik! chik! and a fast breakfast. Some iddli and vada.


10:13 AM (Castlerock)
CastleRock
At Castle Rock- fancy name for a railway station. Train standing and photo session started, followed by introductions, mist n drizzle n nice weather. There's this abandoned railway shed that stands right outside the station in ruins and covered in moss gives you a feeling of some old British castle destroyed by barbarians from up north(ah my imaginations sucks!!!) From here we walk into the mist.

12:32 AM (On Track)
The Welcome Tunnel
We have been walking for quite some time now. A group of fast trekkers carrying the tents are ahead by an hour or even more. Rest of us are moving in even smaller groups occasionally stopping here and there overtaking each other and many other groups travelling alongside. I am with the photographer carrying his tripod and lazily moving- at the end. Taking all my time in enjoying the walk and appreciating the surrounding. It feels like it will rain, a few drops and nothing. We have crossed three tunnels tunnels, few streams, a few trains and right now on a bridge looking at this green rock protruding out from the deep valley bellow.

2:32 PM (Caranzol)
Entering Goa
Group has stopped at a small station. Refreshing and re-energizing and filling empty water bottles. 6.5 Kilometers from here is Doodhsagar railway station says a railway employee posted in this desolate place who just finished his lunch and now washing his plate and tiffin box. And yes we are in the state of Goa now.



4:14 PM (Doodhsagar)
OK finally reached.... What I lost during this fourteen kilometer long walk- lots of calories and all of my shoe sole. What I gained- lots of stamina and strength and photography tips and made new friends and hell lot of fresh air. Right infront of me a sign board says Dudh Sagar Water Falls and above it a little to the left near the peak of this hill white water pouring down from the sky- what a sight.

The Doodhsagar Falls
 5:45 PM (Doodhsagar)
First thing I did was get into water, the fall gushes under the bridge before falling further down into the valley. I heard them say water is less now and yes, it was quite shallow.

Naha Dho Ke Fresh!!!  Few tents are already up, thanks to the leading team of fast trekkers.




6:37 PM (Doodhsagar)
Group starts chatting- all seated in a long line near the rail track as evening is now upon us. Now sleeping mats are being spread as we are about to begin the game of Antakshri.

8:16 PM (Doodhsagar)
Dinner time. Holding torch. Paratha, Palak paneer, Nutri bar, Jowar Roti, Groundnut chutney, Cup noodles. Yo 'm done!!!

10:16 PM (Doodhsagar)
Post dinner talk starts with stories of travel to haunted places. Followed by what I would say entertaining standup comedy. Group dispersed and good night greetings shared.

11:25 PM (Doodhsagar)
Sure most of the group will soon start snoring. Some outside and some from inside the tents

6:04 AM (Doodhsagar)
Heavy Rain
Wake up! Wake up! Answers your nature calls and get back soon for breakfast.

8:00 AM (Doodhsagar)
Super Heavy rain. Departure delayed. Breakfast done.

8:35 AM (Doodhsagar)
Bingo! water inside my mobile phone as we decided to walk into the rain.

9:30 AM (Sonalium)
We are at Sonalium station. Few members have plans to go to Goa so we leave them here. They will catch the next train to Vasco at 11AM. Just out of Sonalium station to your right a small trail starts from near a temple. Call it the Jeep trail.

The Jeep Trail
10:23 AM (On Track)
Jeep trail ends here (it was more of a leech trail) and we are back on rail road. But trekkers are in a different mood here. Fulfilling fantasies of dancing in rain on a railway track; adding wild moves to gagnam dance as it played on a mobile phone wrapped inside a polythene cover.

11:02 AM (On Track)
About one n half km before Quelem station between last pillars of 47 n 48. A swift stream on our left. We plan to spend some time here.

12:34 PM (On Track)
We had fun, trekkers went wet n' crazy. It was relaxing. Will now walk over the remaining rail road to Kulem station. Here comes the downpour.
The Rejuvenating Stream

1:12 PM (Kulem)
At Kulem  station. My legs are hurting more because I have been walking in this weird manner curse my wet and heavy pants which seemed to be unevenly stitched between the legs making me uncomfortable. First thing change of clothes.

2:23 PM (Kulem)
Had lunch. Fish curry. Fish fry. Hungry tummy now so happy. Place is near the station, take the foot bridge and exit at the north side, take left at the crossroad and then first left lane, third house on right. Couple of table and chair outside.

Goods Train at Kulem
4:20 PM (Kulem)
Train comes Vasco-Nizamuddin Express. General compartment- full rush. So push and talk and make way and find a place to settle down. Once done now wait.





6:37 PM (Londa)
Londa station another one and half hour wait before our final train to Bangalore arrives. Bhelpuri gorging session followed by BTC Feedback session.

8:00 PM (In Train)
Train came in time. Now slowly settling down, arranging and rearranging our berth until we get it right.

11:00 PM (In Train)
Majestic Doodhsagar Falls
We had biscuits and moongdal and nuts and everything eatable that was left in our bags. Also had dinner. Then talked n' talked n' made noise n' played dumb charades. I was the last dumb enactor "Funtoosh the dudes of tenth century"- huh! Our team won n' the other team lost. As we are all tired and badly need some sleep quickly exchanged goodnight greetings and retired.

02:33 AM (In Train)
Shivering like I am the cause why this train is rambling. Someone must have left the doors open my berth being the last one takes all the chilling wind rushing in n m dressed extreme shorts n light tee shirt. Do not know what to do now smearing volini all over my legs and arms and will try sleeping again. MORE SHIVERRING!!!

6:56 AM (Yesvantpur)
Man had a cold night. Some of us got down here while rest will continue till city central railway station or majestic.

7:23 AM (Majestic)
Majestic. Quick walk out of station and shake hands before all dispersed with hopes to meet again and be part of another fantastic journey together.

Note: Photo credits Chaitanya, Kushal and Gangadhar (Photos were edited to best fit sizes). Many thanks to Bangalore Trekking Club for organizing this trip.

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

trip down south



4:06 pm (Bangalore)
Autorickshaw reached Krishnarajapuram station. Auto pay 61/-  what sixty 'one'.
Train delay by 40 mins was scheduled at 4:25PM. Now wait n' wait. Some Howrah train left station lot of Bengali folks. A little chaotic scene. Open Hemingway. Little sleepy.

5:27pm (Bangalore)
Train 2 hrs 10 min late. Hemingway making me more sleepy. So walk around.
A Farewell to Arms

6:55pm (Bangalore)
My train arrived finally. Tutikuty somthin exp. Get on train, B2-30-upper berth. Call home. Discuss new house const plans etc.

7:40pm (Bangalore)
All phone will swith off. Read Hemingway. Chapter4 finish, war Italy vs Austria nd American boy drive ambulance cars on Italian side. Sleep off goodnight.

2:40am (Someplace)
Sleep finish. Phone on. Watsapp msg rcv rply. Vry hungry. Dinner passed out.

4:25 am (Madurai)
Train rchd Madurai jnctn. Get off train. Ask RPF how go to Rameswaram. Take bus frm station to matdawani bus stop n get a bus frm there. Matdwani 7km frm here. Hotel Shree Kanna Veg. One coffee 11 rs. Make it super strong. Ask at hotel counter Rameswaram bus. He says train at 6 am better. Sip hot coffee njoy n back into station. Nw in Q5 railway bookin counter in Madurai station.

4:46 am (Madurai)
Tic done. Jnry 3041 Rameswaram passenger 30/- 6:00am. Now sit in platform n do nothing. Look at people walkin by, talking loud n soft n singing vendors,"kapi kapi kapi tee kapi kapi kapi teee"

5:22am (Madurai)
Wait, wait n more wait n chapter 8. Hemingway is all girl-wine n wine- girl n ofcourse war scheduled to start. WAR! Huh m already at war- bloody mosquitoes every where. Rt hnd holds hemingway,left flyin allover chasing them. Eyes readin book while mouth blowing air missiles at attacking enemies. And wait, wait, wait

5:51am (Madurai)
Platfrom4 announced. I like the people here in south. Very Disciplined. All coffee goes inside you n cups inside dustbins. Station jet clean even in dis hrs unlike up north it smells n looks shitt. Also they hav escalators here which is better

6:06am (Madurai)
In d train. All lower berths taken. No issues passenger train it is. Happily place my water bottle, bag, sandals n me on d upper berth wooden platform. Let d sun rise higher n once more light apear will release Hemingway. Till then will try to grasp wat eveybody arnd are talking abt. My tamil being fantastically zero. Its sm wat like foreigner experience

6:42:am (Someplace)
As train starts talking with wind. Everybdy here has settled themselves in their own comfortable states.  All ladies fat n old n with babies n kids n without seats settled on floor. All men standing near d door hav started talking dn know what of heaven or hell yet they r nowhere near the shrill chatter of d ladies on d floor mother-inlaws daughter-inlaws grandmothers granddaughter all of ladies kin. Here goes a fewmilkbikis, milkpowder n warm water in a bowl n a quick cerelac spin.

6:57am (Someplace)
First stop n all hell broke loose. More ladies, more jasmine, more yell, more chaos. Quick settlements and all on the floor. Hail ladies. Nothing more of any interest. I guess Hemingway's time has come.
Bridge and Boats at Bay


9:37am (Someplace)
Rameswaram hasn't arrived yet. Awfully bad smell not sure how much left but yes this is d last leg before reaching d island. Morning rush is over nt many ppl left. Floor is empty, even seats r empty n I m fucking hungry

10:21am (Rameswaram)
Pretty warm out here or say a little hot

10:37am (Rameswaram)
Damn my dear Friends have been struggling to book my return tic from Madurai to Bangalore. Nothing worked no train tic booked all regretted. Kartikh hotel 850/- AC near KV Rameswaram. Room 204. IRCTC SUCKS!!!

11:10am (Rameswaram)
Ok I booked a bus ticket from Madurai to Bangalore for tomorrow afternoon. Redbus zindabaad. Lunch at Ramdev Marwari Bhojanalaya near temple square

1:34pm (Rameswaram)
To Dhanushkodi from near hotel. Bus number 'Three. No seat. Got seat. Weeding hoardings all over in town, outside town. Scores of them all along roadsides. I guess I landed in d peak mating season here. Among NTR, Karunanidhi, Jayalalitha, I also spotted late LTTE's Prabhakaran on wedloc banners alongside local heroes and to be married couples.
Mahindra MaxiCab

2:39pm (Dhanushkodi)
Only started now. MaxiCab Mahindra last window seat. Like camel back ride.

5:00pm (Dhanushkodi)
It was a strange feeling to be at d edge. Sea of Arabia to your right roaring n slowly merging with the silent sea of Bengal on my left. With what shall I compare I do not kno but I loved d feeling of being here. Dhanuskodi was once a small town that got completely destroyed in a storm back in 1964. One ruined church, railway station couple of broken building is all that remains.

6:17 (Rameswaram)
Left Dhanushkodi. Sunset was not complete. There are clouds at d horizon. Was alone but never felt lonely  its good to b alone sometimes. Will take another shower once in hotel, hav some coffee n bada, d fast food stall near d hotel looked good.
Dhanushkodi

9:08 pm (Rameswaram)
Today its early to bed n early to rise. Tonight I turned Rameswaram upside down looking for South Indian veg meal n ended up eating at ramdev marwari bhojanalaya AGAIN! N drank hot badam milk after dinner. Bought a souvenir sea shell for 100 buck. Yes, I know overpriced.

09:16pm (Rameswaram)
Hav been fighting with d tv remote cntrl for quite sm tym nw. Its a daunting task finding one non tamil channel here. I better retire for d night.

4:18am (Rameswaram)
Wokeup already. 12 mr mins befr my alarm comes alive. Anyways will go ahead take bath and get ready to catch d sunrise at eastern sea
5:02am (Rameswaram)
Left hotel towrds the ghats near Rameswaram temple. Its quite n cool morning.  Less dust just sand over tarred rd, a pleasant walk it is.

05:25am (Rameswaram)
At agnitheertham ghat near d eastern gate of the temple is already teemed with people going for bath, taking bath n returnin after bath. Its not dawn yet but I can understand its goin to be a cloudy day ahead. So dats about all for sunrise at sea. Will go do my darshan, sooner better before it gets crowded

05:40am (Rameswaram)
Will leave my bag here at this stall infront of eastern dwaar of d temple where this old man is selling pooja thali. Will leave my sandals here too.

6:16am (Rameswaram)
Darshan over, not much rush. I took all my time going through temple compound. Saw the crystal Shiva lingam. Offered my prayers. And I did pay 50 Rs for darshan. There are about 27 wells within d temple that devotees take bath as part of darshan n purification of there sins. I had taken my bath so skipped anthr 27 baths n also saved 25 Rs
They Sell Sea Shells on Sea Shore

6:40am (Rameswaram)
One hard crust bonda, one onion bonda n one soft crust sweet bonda with tea without sugar for breakfast near Harish hotel on main market road just before the central traffic signal.

7:12am (Rameswaram)
Since I have couple of hours n weather is not hot like yesterday I have decided to walk till the Ramapadam temple. About 3 kms on the north road from central traffic signal. Almost empty road, just a couple of autos n bikes passing by. It's Ganesh chaturthy today, front yard of all houses that I hav passed on this road has been cleaned n moped with cowdung. Has a typical smell n looks greenish in color. Rangolis hav also been made. Walking towards a TV tower.

8:00am (Rameswaram)
At Ramapadam. Small hill, two storeyed temple. Nice view of the island from here. With d sweet breeze its relaxing up here.

9:25am (Rameswaram)
Another glass of tea is perfect nw. Lot of temp shop selling Ganesh idols of all sizes. There are also a few that will get you a fresh out of cast idols. Not sure when it will dry n when u will begin pooja with it. May be its a better thing to do, environment friendly no colors no false jewels just out of mud. When immersed after pooja it will hav no carbon footprint. Awesome!! I like people here in South they are intelligent folks. If only rest of our country learns from them

11:19am (Rameswaram)
Left hotel. It rained a little, love rain. Got ticket to Madurai 30/- 11:50 train. Gorged lemon rice at the station hotel for 20 bucks.
Rameswaram Rail Station

11:35am (Rameswaram)
Got a corner seat somehow. Not much rush like morning n evening trains. Now waiting for train to start n give Hemingway a read, its been sittin idle for sometime now.

11:51am (Rameswaram)
Train just started

1:13pm (Ramanathapur)
Train stops some get down n more get in while I snap off from my short nap. Now Hemingway will appear

1:56pm (Paramakodi)
Hemingway's boy is about to become a father n has to go back to war. While more people climbed in its the floor that is again cleared for ladies. Funny times Hemingway is talking about, funny talk ladies talking aloud that I do not understand watsoever

2:34pm (Manamadurai)
I did not know they have peacock down south. Spotted a few while train passing by these arid landscape.

03:26pm (Madurai)
Madurai junction. Will head to Meenakshi temple.

6:00pm (Madurai)
Meenakshi temple is no doubt the biggest of all temples I hav been to. Beautiful, absolute splendor one should never miss. Had 2nd lunch at Brindavan Veg 60Rs South Indian meals before going to temple as temple only opened at 4 pm. Weather is not very hot slightly cloudy.

7:37pm (Madurai)
Now nicely seated at a corner table in Anjapar restaurant KKnagar Madurai. Prawn fry, chicken Chitenadu n rice being cooked for me in the kitchen. I hav my bus at 9:15 from near here.
Nataraj - at Meenakshi Temple

9:16pm (Madurai)
Bus is here, seat num 9. Very tired will try to sleep quick. And food in Anjapar was not at all good. It did rain here too.

6:00am (Bangalore)
CentralSilkboard junction. Will be home soon and its raining.

Note: Snaps at Glimmering - Flickering